Arigato Gozaimasu, Tokyo

I've been dying to write about Tokyo since my trip last summer. It was everything I could have ever hoped it to be, and then a little more. 

Growing up, flying to Jakarta from Texas always involved a layover somewhere in Asia, and we usually passed through either Tokyo or Hong Kong. We'd venture out for a few hours to kill time, but it wasn't until recent that I got the chance to properly explore this incredible city. 

Famous Shibuya Crossing

Thanks to my good friend and fellow chef, Lai, this trip was made possible. He'd been planning his adventure for months, and I cheekily added myself into his itinerary in the last minute. I met Lai at HKG International and we boarded our plane to Tokyo. Landing into the Haneda Airport was like landing into a new world. I've done my fair share of travels through Asia, but nothing can quite prepare you for Tokyo. It is a shock to the system in the best way possible. The airport was total chaos, an attack on your senses, if you will. Loud chatter, people whirling past with loaded suitcases, intriguing smells wafting through the air, I was sold. This city had me at hello. 

Thankfully Lai speaks a little Japanese so we rushed to a counter to purchase a JR Pass  to get around the city - something I'd highly recommend getting if you're thinking of going! 90% of transport around Tokyo involves their intensive network of underground trains. This pass allows you to easily tag on and off at any spot, just make sure you have a good navigator in your group! I was terrible at it, and was a complete sheep, following Lai wherever he lead me. Few signs are in English unfortunately, so always keep a map on hand!

Wagyu for days

We checked into the Apa Hotel  in Shinjuku and immediately I was struck by the precision and tactfulness of Japanese society. The room was small, but honestly, you didn't really miss the space. There was a bed, a desk,  free wifi, and a bathtub. Ladies and gents, let me emphasize on the bathtub! Before this trip I'd probably taken five baths in my life, but after walking for what felt like miles across Tokyo, I looked forward to returning home and soaking in the hottub. Pronounced just like Will Ferrell on SNL, please. What made it even better were these "sauna packs" I found, that are essentially bath salts that cost less than $1 that you sprinkle in to help ease your muscles and relax. Incredible.

Our days in Tokyo were focused completely around eating. What more can you expect when you send two chefs to a city brimming with food. I kid you not, our schedule was wake up, get on the train to a new part of town, buy something to snack on, sit down for breakfast, walk, shop, walk, stop for lunch, walk, snack, shop, train, stop for coffee, walk, shop, train, stop for dinner, walk, dessert, sake, asahi, sake, snack, train, hotel, cheeky umeshu, bath, bed. We did this for nearly a week. It was insanity. The walking and window shopping game in Tokyo is fierce. There's just so much to take in, so many districts to visit, and so much to eat. Rich or poor, you will never go hungry in this city. 

Trip Highlight

I can't mention Tokyo without mentioning the Tsukiji Fish Market's. This is the place to go for fresh seafood. We decided against watching the 3am catch & trade demonstration and rocked up around 9:30. At this point all the fun was over, but we weren't fussed as we really just came for the food. We browsed the different vendors, all of which had a good 45 minute queue,  so we took our spot in a line and waited for what felt like a decade before we were finally seated. Some important things to know:

My Tuna Set - Tsukiji Markets

Our Sushi Vendor - Tsukiji Markets

1.) Don't order salmon. You will be crazy judged by not only the fish monger but any local nearby. Salmon is a river fish not an ocean fish, so it's not what you're there for. Trust. 

2.) This place is not cheap. To eat like the locals and get the best bang for your buck, order a sushi set. This comes with rice, sashimi, miso, and a little salad. The sets are served as combos that usually include three different kinds of fish, ex.)  fatty tuna, uni and tuna belly. 

3.) Make friends with your Itamae or sushi chef. Thank him, compliment him, don't drown your fish in soy sauce or rub your chopsticks together, and he will thank you in return with more fish. They take pride in their sushi, so take pride in your eating. 

Here were some of my other favorites eats:

一蘭拉麵 - Ichiran Raman – A ‘chain’ ramen restaurant that’s super casual. You sit at your own booth, and fill out a little form specifying exactly how you want your ramen…. Extra noodles, extra garlic (duh!) extra meat, chili, how much onion, how thick you want the noodles, etc etc. Perfect for a cheap, casual and filling lunch!

Customized Ramen 

Maisen Tonkatsu – probably the most famous place to eat Tonkatsu. An absolute must for dinner! Go to the Aoyama location is Shibuya. The most popular dish (so effing delicious) is the Okita Kurobuta Fried Pork Loin meal (about 3,780 Yen). It’s probably their most expensive option, but I think it’s the best. However, any of the pork katsu’s on the menu going to be delicious. If you like sweet alcohol, make sure you order a glass of Brown Sugar Umeshu on the rocks to sip with your meal. The sweet liquor with the pork makes a to die for combination… Im drooling.

Shinjuku Alleyways: Omoide Yokocho (piss alley/memory lane), Golden Gai, and Nonbei Yokocho - A collection of famous alleyways that are tiny corridors packed with small bars and eatiers that seat only 5 – 6 people. That atmosphere is always buzzing as people pile in after work. The fair is simple and delicious, consisting mainly of yakitori - grilled skewers of veggies and various cuts of chicken. The chicken skin is to die for! It's a wonderful place to stumble into for a midnight snack or sit and watch the world go by. Definitely a must to experience late-night culture in Tokyo, delicious food and strong drinks.

拉麵博物館 - Ramen museum – This place is a shrine to all things Ramen. Combing a bit of Japanese history with every kind of Ramen known to Japan, it's an incredible foodie education. Upstairs at the museum highlights the birthplace of each various types of ramen highlight specific regions of Japan. Downstairs, at least ten different vendors are set up with vending machines used to purchase your order before entering the restaurant. Id recommend ordering the half portion so that you can try a few different shops. My favorite type of ramen is Tonkotso, a rich pork broth served with tender slices of pork belly. Yum!

Tonkotso Ramen

新宿(伊勢丹 Isetan – big shopping mall, with a huge food court in the basement – tons of delicious things to try while you take a break from the fabulous shops upstairs! 

原宿(第八蛸華丸- some of the most famous Takoyaki in Tokyo! This dish is like a little cloud of octopus heaven. Tons of different varieties, but I like the original best. A warm doughy puff filled with bits of octopus, topped with a tangy BBQ sauce and drizzle of Japanese mayo, sprinkled with spring onions and crispy fish flakes. This dish originates in Osaka, but if you can't make it up there, this is the next best thing. Best of all, this little stall is in Harajuku, a great fashion district featuring local urban designers and well know brands.

Incredible Takoyaki! 

Places worth seeing:

淺草雷門寺(花月堂) – Senso-ji Temple.  Famous temple surrounded by a quint town and beautiful gardens. Make sure you make a wish and get a fortune. Lots of yummy snacks  to try, and delicious Udon and Tempura to eat nearby.

Tokyo Sky Tree – great observation point to see the city from way up high. Beautiful to visit at night.

Robot Restaurant - pretty much exactly what you expect out of Tokyo. Weird, cool, over the top entertainment and beer. 

橫浜中華街 - Yokohama China Town – lots of delicious street food options nestled in a little district. Try the roasted chestnuts from street vendors and the delicious pork buns.

Oh! And if you're like me, and have never been to Disneyland, go check it out! It was really easy to get there by train and like everything else in Japan, it's very straightforward and organized  If you want the novelty of Disney go to Disneyland, and if you want the excitement of theme parks go to Disney Sea. While I had a wonderful experience, I didn't quite get my adrenaline fill at Disneyworld. Either way, I'd highly recommend purchasing the fast track pass - its not cheap but saves you so much time and let's you cut the long lines. Everything is dubbed in Japanese so you don't get the full experience of the rides that have narration, but overall it was still magical and worth visiting! 

Precious Snow White

Obligatory churros at Disney